...Seville

Aire de Seville

As city breaks go, you can’t beat Seville. And i’ll tell you for why. It has the most perfect blend of history and architecture at every turn. Stylish people lining every road, sipping coffee or refreshing themselves with a cana.  Yes, in the middle of the summer it is hot. Very hot, but this forces you to explore the cool and shaded side streets in which you can easily get lost.  You discover the most fantastic ice cream parlours and little cafes where the old wooden stools and tables balance dangerously on the cobbled street.

And if you’re really lucky you’ll discover Aire de Sevilla. A bath house from history, with moorish decor and music which transports you into a different time. I visit the bath house every time I find myself in Seville. It’s a must do.

Where to stay:

Roof terrace at Vincci La Rabida

The last time I was in Seville, we stayed in a boutique hotel.  It was nice enough and right in the centre of town.  But my preference would be to stay at the Vincci la Rabida

The hotel just feels like Seville and the terrace bar has some amazing views of the city, especially at night when the Cathedral is lit up. Ideal for a pre going out drink.

As drinks go, if you find yourself in the vicinity, as it is just out of the historical centre, there is a bar, la Fabrica, where you can pour your own beer and the bar snacks are good too.  It’s just a novel place but the beer is really good and the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly.

Bodega Santa Cruz

Where to eat:

Now for the food. We got ripped off one night when we ate out in Seville.  It can happen everywhere.  Unfortunately the owner who was eating on the table by us didn’t anticipate the fact that we understood Spanish, so we heard each time the poor waiter was ordered to add things to our bill, or ensure that we were given large glasses etc so we incurred higher charges.  I forget the name of the restaurant but it was tucked away in its own little square and had a large outside space at the front where they had tables.   

So here’s the trick. When in Seville, do as the locals do and hit the tapas. Most bars have their own speciality, so it’s worth asking and trying something new. You might expect that the street by the Cathedral is rip off central, but you’d be wrong. It’s where you find many locals and the prices are fair.  We tend to bar hop.  Order a cana or two and a couple of tapas and move on. You can’t go wrong (unless you order pickled mussels which are foul). You can explore countless streets and you’ll find good tapas bars on all of them, just try and look for locals.  It’s a simple theory but it seems to work.  But my favourite tapas bar and this is endorsed by rick Stein (we found it first!), is halfway up the road from the cathedral, Calle Mateos gago, and sits on the corner of a side street. It’s called Bodega Santa Cruz Las Columnas and the this is where you find the best flamenquines but all the Tapas is good here.  Your bill is chalked up on the bar and the staff are friendly in their own shouty way.  Tips are nonchalantly tossed over shoulders and into the trophy high up on the wall.  The bar itself doesn't look like much but the atmosphere is superb and all the patrons are friendly.  If you want to experience true Andalusian spirit, come here.

Links:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destination/spain/72346/36-Hours-in...-Seville.html

http://www.spanishfoodworld.co.uk/rick-stein-tapas/

http://www.airedesevilla.com/