...Bath

Probably one of England's most historical cities, owing to its Roman heritage. Ideal for group visits, romantic breaks or the entire family. There’s probably something for everyone. Just remember, just because Bath is a City, it is small, which is one of its charms.

The Roman Baths is probably the most famous and popular attraction. And there is a reason why.  It’s fantastic.  And, if you do visit the Roman Baths and feel the need to take a dip, the Thermae Bath is definitely for you.  I’ll be honest.  I've been to better spa’s/Baths. However, this is England's only natural, thermal spa!  You do pay for that privilege, but there is a reason you go to the Thermae, and that is for the view! The rooftop spa is wonderful.  The panorama you get of the City , with steam rising from the water is well worth the price. We went in the winter, with snow on the hills and roof tops and it was magical. In the summer, I can imagine it to be just as spectacular.

There is of course plenty of shopping to be had in Bath, all the major high street brands and many independents too. And the surrounding areas have lost of active pastimes, so if you are staying for a couple of nights and want to do something a hit more exhilarating, check out the possibilities. (See links at the end of this Blog).

Where to stay:

We stayed at Henrietta house. A lovely old building run by a German couple.  Honestly, I stayed there because it was within budget and catered for a one night stay.  But it was a lovely place, with some lovely touches, like homemade biscuits in the room, but if you’re staying for longer then do look around. The rooms are not huge (well, ours wasn’t). The breakfast was lovely I should add.  It reminded me of our stay in Salzburg.

The staff were extremely helpful, offering us towels etc for the Thermae Bath, to save us some money.  The location is ideal.  You can walk into the main part of the City within minutes, having crossed over the river and passed some lovely independent shops. You can walk from the train station to the Hotel,but we opted for a taxi. There is parking if you drive.

Where to eat:

I researched lots of places to eat. I was on a budget and ended up settling on Brown’s.  Set in a Grade II listed building, I hoped it would a lovely setting with reasonable food.  I was right on one count. The building is lovely.  However, I would hate to go there on a busy night.  We ate on a Friday and it wasn't hugely busy, yet we were served warm food. How long it had been waiting around is anyone's guess. The flavours combinations were good but to be quite frank, for what were ordered, you can do better at home. A note to the chef, fancy plates do not make food tastier.

On a positive note, I did have a voucher for a discount on their fine wine selection. And when i scanned the receipt the next day, i noticed the wine had not been charged at all. Somewhat of a win after a decidedly limp culinary experience. I would not suggest you avoid Brown’s. I try and give places the benefit of the doubt.  If you’re with a group of people and the food is not the main event, then it’s is probably ideal. And don't forget the setting.  the restaurant itself is exceptionally comfortable and has a nice ambiance to it.  I didn't wholly dislike my experience there.

Now strictly speaking, a cocktail bar is not somewhere to eat. And I think i’d struggle to suggest Door 34 is.  However, when we visited on Burns night, there was not only Haggis on offer, delivered by a kilted man, but there was also cheese and biscuits (probably more of a regular occurrence).  Door 34 is one of these backstreet cocktail bars where the tables need a bit of a clean.  You felt surfaces were a bit sticky.  But the staff are extremely entertaining, the cocktails are fabulous and if you’re lucky they throw in the odd freebie too!  We were so glad to have made the effort to find this place.  It was a real talking point.  Other, more ‘shiny’ cocktail bars can be found in Bath!

The oldest Tea Room in the Land (or so they say) can be found in Bath.  the famous Sally Lunn’s. My partner nearly went here on her last visit to Bath, with friends.  they couldn’t get in so went else where.  We did get in.  And I wish we hadn’t. Sally Lunn’s, aside from being the oldest tea room, is famous for the Bath bun. There’s not much you can’t serve with or on a Bath bun, it would appear.  The safe option, would be traditional rarebit, or so you would think.  Soggy bread (er sorry, Bath bun) with melted, cheddar cheese on it and a side of bitter salad is not really what I call rarebit. It was a pathetic attempt.  I looked around and the soup looked lovely, as did the smoked salmon on, yes, a Bath bun. Plates were being left empty all around us. (my plate left me empty too).

The tea there undoubtedly good. I can recommend the Russian Caravan. if you do decide to go, then don't sit on a table for two. They’re not big enough. And hopefully they’ve shown the place a lick of paint.  It just looked very tired in there.  Maybe they were trying to emphasise the fact it’s old(?).

Links:

Thermae Bath

Restaurants - Tripadvisor

http://www.henriettahouse.co.uk/

http://www.browns-restaurants.co.uk/locations/bath/

Sally Lunn’s Tripadvisor reviews

Looking for guest posts

Been somewhere on holiday and want to share your experience?  I’m looking for people who want to add to this blog as a guest blogger. You just need to write a short intro about the destination and what you got up to, where you stayed and what foodie experiences you had.   Contact me via the blog if you're interested.

...Granada

This was probably one of our more spectacular fails when it came to organising and booking all the elements of our holiday, independently. We ended up in the middle of nowhere!  “Walking distance to small village with several bars and restaurants”, it said.  “Oh brilliant” we said.  Nothing better than having bars and restaurants within walking distance of where you’re staying.

It didn't mention the perilous walk along the river bank to get there and that the bars and restaurants were all either closed, pensionistas or looked dirtier than a dirty protest! Hmm, we’d be eating in or having the annoying option of driving somewhere and not being able to drink. Or at least me, the designated driver.

We had lots of BBQs.

Shade in Alhama

Surprisingly this turned out to be a great little holiday. Visit the Lake at Bermejales. Truly stunning

Great architecture in Alhama,
and places to cool off!

Where to stay:

Valenzuela is a tiny hamlet in Granada near Alhama de Granada.  We stayed in a lovely 2 bed cottage that is suitable for the winter months too. Although this is no modern abode, the red door that greets you is cheerful and as you enter you feel sheltered from the heat of the sun.  It’s comforting.  It’s a space you want to spend time in.  

Love this red door to the cottage

Views around Alhama de Granada

There’s nothing to do in Valenzuela. Nothing except soak up the sun and swim in the pool.  The outdoor space to this property is brilliant. If you need supplies, Moraleda de Zafayona or Alhama de Granada are your best bets.  There is a couple of shops in one of the villages close by, but to be honest, they’re not worth bothering with.

There is a health spa on the road that takes you to Alhama which you should visit. The town is called such after the thermal spa here,  al-hammam in Arabic  The waters here supposedly have medicinal qualities.  There is a nice walk here too.  You should also spend some time investigating Alhama de Granada, as this is the best place within striking distance of Valenzuela.  It has a very Roman feel to it and some of the architecture is quite impressive in a shabby ancient way. It also has some breathtaking views. Some are obvious others you just stumble upon.

Take a stroll along the stream at the hot spings

If you’re going to the Granada region, then you really do need to visit the Alhambra. Go early. You’ll avoid the queues (sort of) and the heat.  You don't want to waiting to enter a building at midday, in summer. Wear sensible shoes as their is a fair bit of walking involved.  The Alhambra is a marvel to behold.  You should also visit the City and take a tour bus as you won't find your way around otherwise.

Stunning buildings at the
Alhambra

When we left Valenzuela we both agreed that this was a holiday that would have been made all the better if we’d done it as a part of a fly drive holiday, and visited other parts of Andalusia. Tthe driving really isn't an issue.  The roads are good and not very busy.  It was a great feeling driving through the mountains.  You’d also do quite well to visit in the winter.  It snows here and I can only imagine the scenery looking fabulous in the white. I’d also consider staying in Alhama, just for the convenience.

The Alhambra is a must visit

Where to eat:

Now here’s the thing. You’ll struggle to find restaurants.  Or at least you’ll struggle to find restaurants with interesting menus.  Spanish food can be very simple. That’s not a criticism as i’m a huge fan of Spanish food. But what you will find is plenty of places serving food. Confused? It appears that in this region of Spain they still uphold a traditional way of life.  and that is giving you a ‘free’ Tapa with your drink. And the drinks are cheap!  We tipped reasonably well in percentage terms, just because we felt so bad at how cheap everything was.  And how good!

In Alhama our favourite place was in the main square before the big hill.  They cooked your tapas before your eyes and the beer was cold. There was always a selection. Well, meat, fish...

And this was our experience of eating out.  We did find one restaurant that seemed quite popular and frankly, the tapas at the bars was better. So when in Rome er, i mean Granada, do as they do, and drink and eat tapas!

That or stay in and BBQ!

 Useful Links

http://www.piccavey.com/alhama-de-granada/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alhama_de_Granada

http://wikitravel.org/en/Alhama_de_Granada

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/spain/5278449/Alhama-de-Granada-Spain-my-kind-of-town.html

...Online. A new service to research your holiday for you!

A recent report stated that the average Briton spent 24 hours researching their holiday online! That's a lot.  But when you're spending a large chunk of your income on a just a week or two, you want to make sure you get all the details right.

So this got me thinking.  I like researching holiday stuff, so what if I was to do this for you! After a brief consultation, I can provide you with a personalised portfolio for specific destination, ranging from where to stay, what to do, where to eat and where to relax with a drink in your hand with that perfect view. All within your budget. Well, maybe with one or two little treats thrown in, that you may want to consider splashing the cash on.

The portfolio will be available online, so you can access it whilst you're away and will consist of information gathered from various sites which rate and recommend all the aspects of the destination you are interested in.  

So what's the catch?

Well there is none?  You get that day back of your life back, that you would have otherwise spent in front of a computer screen. 

Does it cost?

There will be a charge which will be dependent on the depth of detail you want in your portfolio and/or the number of activities etc you want information on. The starting cost will be £10 for a basic search and portfolio. This will rise under negotiation after the consultation. 

...Yorkshire Dales

What a marvelous island this is.  We really do have some truly stunning places to visit. The Yorkshire Dales is certainly one of the prettiest places to spend your time. I have had many a holiday up in the Dales and I would certainly recommend you stay in the Leyburn area, as you are well placed to explore the Dales and all the activities it has to offer. In early May, there is a food festival which is certainly worth attending and in the late spring you start to get a lot of the agricultural shows which can be thoroughly entertaining.  A couple of years ago we went to the Reeth Show and had a great day out.  If you have kids, they’ll love it too.

Water Fall in West Burton - frozen in winter

So what can you do in the Dales?  Well, what do you like doing?  You can do it all up there! Ripon is worth visiting as is Harrogate.  It’s mainly shopping but you do get to go to Betty’s in Harrogate and Ripon has a great cathedral and a very good restaurant called the Deanery.

Closer to Leyburn there are a couple of castles worth looking at, Bolton castle and the one in Middleham. If you have kids, try taking 

Castle Bolton

them to the Forbidden Corner.  If you have larger kids, take them to aerial extreme in Bedale. There are some trout fisheries if you like fishing and if you like beer, there is the Black Sheep Brewery in Masham. But walking is probably the most popular pastime of visitors to the dales and I can recommend the trails at Malham tarn and any starting from Askrigg.

Where to stay:

Semerwater - Close to Askrigg

Several good golf courses too!

We always stay at The Mill in West Burton or at the Shippon in Askrigg. They are both owned by the same people and have always had excellent service. The Mill is a lovely place for a couple. It’s a flat in a converted water Mill, right by a stunning waterfall.  The village itself is picture postcard pretty and has a fairly decent pub for food.  The butcher there is very good.  Amazing black pudding. Askrigg is a more typical village, with several pubs and shops. I prefer the Kings Arms, who do a good food menu. The Shippon, in Askrigg, is a good place to go with friends as it has a second bedroom.  It also has an outdoor space for a BBQ in the summer and indoors is a cosy coal burner for the colder winter nights. 

Reeth - Great ice cream parlour here. Enjoy with the views

Where to eat:

Ok. I’m going to have to be selective here, as i’ve eaten a lot of places up here. The Yorkshires sure know how to cook!

Blue Lion. Even Jamie Oliver raves about
this place.  Oh and Prince Charles Too!

You must try the blue Lion at East Witton. Prince Charles dines there and I can confirm the food is brilliant. The menu can vary quite a lot and it can be hard to choose. We’ve even been known to go for lunch and just have a starter and a pudding and coffees.  Just as a light bite.  You can eat in the bar area, which is nice enough.  Big fire! Or there are dining rooms which are dimly lit can add a very grand feeling to the dining experience, with the pub being such an old building.

The Deanery in Ripon is also worth a visit.  Opposite the Cathedral, this grand building is also a hotel but the food is what you’d go here for.  In the past i’ve had a variety of meals here, with a cassoulet being a particularly memorable dish. after dinner brandy’s are served in particularly large balloons.

The Deanery

The Wensleydale Heifer is up there too.  This is predominantly a fish restaurant. but the meat here is pretty damn good too! They do an early bird menu which is worth doing if you can as like the other two places, it’s not the cheapest.  The battered fish and chips is a good option if you’re feeling ravenously hungry.  It’s big and you can get a whopper sized portion too! The atmosphere is not as good as at the Blue Lion.... you can see where my heart lies!

If you’re heading out towards Richmond, there’s a cracking pub in Downholme called the Bolton Arms.  It used to be owned by the Queen... tenuously.  However, today it is more famous for its Kleftico. You can read a fairly accurate description about it here. The pub itself really isn't anything special to look at.  But the food is actually pretty remarkable. I've been here several times and it always amazes me just how good it is.  My partner always want’s to go back and she really is a stickler for pretty surroundings.  I suppose it’s a proper old fashioned Yorkshire experience.

Another Bolton Arms in Redmire is also worth a visit if you’re not looking to bust the bank and the Kings in Askrigg is worth checking out too.  Great steaks here. If you fancy a night in after a long day walking, find out when the chip van visits. The mobile chip van probably does the best chip shop chips ever.  If you want haddock, don't be afraid to yell that out as soon as he arrives. These fish and chips are seriously good. Closely rivaled by Friar Tucks in Leyburn. We sometimes get some Friar Tucks and quickly drive to the car park at Castle Bolton and enjoy them with a view!

Useful Links:

http://www.welcometoleyburn.co.uk/

www.wensleydalescottages.co.uk/

www.thebluelion.co.uk/

www.wensleydaleheifer.co.uk/

http://www.aerialextreme.co.uk/page/north-yorkshire

http://www.yorkshire-dales.com/aysgarth-falls.html

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/your-travels/9842953/Yorkshire-Dales-readers-tips-recommendations-and-travel-advice.html

...Fowey

...Fowey.  Sticking with a Cornish theme, Fowey is a stunning coastal town in Cornwall.  There is a little ferry across to Porluan which is also worth a little explore.  there are a few good walks to be had from Porluan.

Fowey is very much one of those places where it’s simply quite nice to wander around the streets and do  little shopping in the little shops.  It’s a very pretty, so it’s worth taking a camera. It’s also a pretty good place to stay if you’re aiming to go to the Eden project. There really isn't a huge amount to do in Fowey but don't let this put you off.  Fowey is one of the places in Cornwall I would go back to time after time for a short break. It is one of the most relaxing places you can find!

Where to stay:

We stayed just outside of Fowey in a B&B on a little farm estate. A great location, as you probably don't want to find yourself driving into the centre of Fowey when it’s busy. The B&B consists of several out building which if you needed, could be rented together if there is a number of you.  They share a beautifully landscaped Mediterranean style courtyard, where you can sit and admire the views.  You also have your breakfast out here or in your rooms if it’s not the weather for al fresco!

We stayed in a room called Millstone, which was very pleasant.  For the price I thought the standard was very good.  It wasn’t drowning in gadgets and fancy decor like some B&Bs think is essential and actually add very little to the experience. There are walks from the B&B and there is also a nature reserve which we sadly didn't have the time to explore.

The breakfast was served in our room, which you might think a little odd but it really wasn’t. And it certainly didn’t feel intrusive. The standard was very good although I did miss the experience you get at many guest houses where you have the breakfast buffet before the cooked food.

A taxi into Fowey was about £4.50.  So in the evening it’s very cheap to get a drive into town.  

Where to eat:

There truly is a wealth of places to eat in Fowey. But for me, the best place in town is Sam’s. If you can try and eat upstairs.  It will be busy in there and it’s a slightly odd set up inside.  You arrive and order your food before you have a table. Best thing on the menu is the surf and turf.  Then, if you want a little aperitif, you can head upstairs to the cocktail bar and enjoy one or more from their superb selection.

When your food is nearly ready, you head to your table and enjoy.  I must confess. we have a couple of cocktails to start and a couple after, so I can't remember what starter I had. But the surf and turf was certainly memorable.  Just go for the half lobster. There is plenty of food on the plate. All fresh and local. I suppose it can be a little rowdy in Sam’s. But it is certainly a place locals go to and it is certainly a place to go for a fun time. I have such fond memories of Sam’s, I can’t recommend it enough.

...Fuengirola

Fuengirola I must confess wouldn't ordinarily be my first choice destination. My partner has a relative out there so we've had free accommodation and a reason to go. However, I seem to have fallen for the place. Yes there is a real element of Brits abroad which I try and turn a blind eye too. Yes the sea front is lined with high rise hotels blocking out the once magnificent mountain views. But, as with anywhere where you know what the locals know, such a place can reveal some unexpected treasures. There is a square, where of an evening you can sit and have an expensive glass of wine, and admire the old town hall, there is another square by the old post office where you can get a large brandy and a coffee for a few euros, in unspoilt peace.  There are restaurants where you wonder how they can produce food of such quality for the prices they charge.  The Beaches are fantastic if not busy at peak times. Oh and there’s  a Zoo.  What was once cages full of sad animals has become an magnificent site where animals have carefully thought out enclosures.

Where to stay:

Well this is going to be short. Only once have we not been able tos stay with said relative. All I can say is, you tend to get what you pay for.  

Where to eat:  

The Meson Salamanca. Undoubtedly my favourite place to eat in Fuengirola.  The owner has recently expanded the restaurant  and I recommend you sit in the old part.  The room on the left as you walk in. The Salamanca operates on a set menu basis but don't let the prices sway your opinion. It’s all good.  You can go a la carte but there’s no reason to really.  People do though but we’ve never seen the point.  We generally always go for the mid ranged option but we've sampled dishes from the cheapest to the most expensive. The quality of the ingredients is always high.  The Gambas y pil pil is a staple of ours when we go there.  The onion soup is also outstanding.  Rarely he will have mussels which I am told also live up to the high standards we have come to expect.
The pork in sauce is tender and cooked to perfection but my favourite is the entrecote. The quality of the beef is excellent. The veg that accompanies most of the dishes is season with garlic salt and it is oh so addictive. The food here is simple.  and most things come with chips and veg. This is how they serve you so quickly and get a high turnover of covers each night. The set menus come with wine, which he buys in bulk from his preferred vineyard so again, its not vinegar your drinking and it quite quaffable. As for desserts, i've never managed to stray from the Creme Brulee or the Crema Catalana. 

Locals flock to this place and it is always busy. It’s a little cramped inside but you get a feeling that everyone is just happy to have a table.  I’m not sure I've ever eaten anywhere that is such good value for money.
My next recommendation is a painful one to admit, having earlier bemoaned the whole Brits abroad culture. But it’s a Chinese. Now, I don't think I should be completely panned for this, as there is a large Chinese community in Fuengirola, so it only makes sense that there are some good Chinese restaurants.  Kevin, the owner is extremely friendly. The restaurant is called Ying Bing and can be found down fish alley.  He even makes the house chilli dipping sauce himself.  He tells us that when he makes it, the entire family leave the premises as the heat from the cooked chilli is so powerful it is almost unbearable.  So, when you order your spring rolls and you offered the hot chilli sauce, do dip with caution! The food here is not laced with MSG or other chemicals, it is just simply, good quality chinese food.  The Spring rolls are the best i’ve ever had. The Pork in hot sauce is the best i’ve ever had. All the dishes on the set menus (you can mix and match if you ask) are the best i’ve ever had. I’m sure if you went to london and spent a lot of money at a top end Chinese restaurant I would be proved wrong but having been here with people who travel to China, they too rave about this place.  

Useful Links:

http://www.andalucia.com/fuengirola/home.htm

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Tourism-g315915-Fuengirola_Costa_del_Sol_Andalucia-Vacations.html

...St Ives

St Ives.  One of those destinations everyone seems to have been to.  Well, so it seems in my experience.  But I’m not sure why.  

We only stayed for one night and quite frankly, that is probably enough unless you’re using it as a base to explore Cornwall from.  The cobbled streets have a great array of shops and there are of course, plenty of galleries. There are also plenty of places to take some wonderful photos. Do take a camera. Something which may have been quite fun, but was closed was a shop where you could decorate your own pottery.  May have a been a quirky way to spend the afternoon.  This place can be found if you take a walk down towards the sea wall, away from the harbour. Quite reasonably priced is a boat trip, where you can view sea lions, whales etc.  Again not running out of season but we would have liked to have done it.

The harbour area has some lovely views and places to perch whilst eating some chips or having a drink. I fully recommend taking a blanket so you can enjoy a snooze on the beach which seemed like a very popular past time with the locals.

One word of warning beware the sea gulls!  They are an absolute menace in every way you can imagine.  

We went in early March and I must say, it wasn't very busy as it seems St Ives closes down until Easter, when it springs back to life.  I’m not sure it’s really big enough to handle hundreds more people but it must get very busy because many of the restaurants on the harbour could cater for large amounts of people.

Where to stay:

View from the Deluxe Sea View room

We stayed in a lovely and well placed B&B called 27 the Terrace.  I would recommend paying for one of the less expensive rooms.  the deluxe sea view we paid for was unfortunately on the ground floor, by a road, opposite the dining room and adjacent to the reception.  Noisy, overlooked from the road and not very intimate.  The quality and standard of the rooms is faultless.  

The staff were very helpful and friendly and the breakfast was good for £85 but maybe not for £100. Another positive factor for this B&B is that they do one night bookings which not all places in St Ives do.  

Where to eat:

Porthminster Cafe has a lovely beach location and serves up reasonably high end food.  We perhaps were a little unfortunate in that all our dishes seemed to have a slight imbalance to them. Either too salty in the case of the pork belly starter or or too much lime in the monk fish curry.

There are some nice touches to the decor here and the white wine is served in an ice bucket.  A child's bucket that you find on the beach. Cute. I can recommend the Picpoul if you’re going for white.

The atmosphere is spot on at the Porthminster and I would certainly return again.  Later that evening we walked along the harbour and saw that the other restaurants we had considered were pretty empty. So if you are going out of season, then walk along the path to the Porthminster as you won’t be disappointed. Walking past the empty restaurants we had the impression that we would have been disappointed by the offering at the harbour. If the locals are eating there on a Friday night, then something’s amiss.

I wouldn't normally do a review on a chip shop but I feel compelled to do so in this case.  If you’re after proper chip shop chips to enjoy by the sea.  You won’t get them here. The chippie in question is located under the Beach restaurant on the harbour front.  A great location for a chip shop.  I wasn't sure if it was a part of the Beach restaurant or not.  If so, i would be worried about the quality of food at what is supposed to be a highly recommended eatery.  The quality of the chip was poor. The battered fish needed longer cooking and the fact they gave me cod instead of haddock really irked me.  There are a couple of other chippies on the front. Try them. Oh and watch out for the sea gulls!

Links

http://www.stives-cornwall.co.uk/

http://www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-st-ives

http://porthminstercafe.co.uk/

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/uk/5776157/St-Ives-Seaside-with-a-light-touch.html

... Funchal

This was one of my favourite holidays of recent years. It was relaxing, everywhere offered a superb view and the City of Funchal was ‘intriguing’. We didn't explore the Island as much as we should have.  In fact we didn't venture out of Funchal. This is probably why we’ll go back. To see the rest of Madeira.

We went in May, and for those of you who know about Madeira or have done some research, you’ll know that it is a tropical island.  So in May you get nice warm weather and run the risk of experiencing the odd rain shower or storm. We had several days of glorious sunshine in the low 20s and a couple of days of rain or overcast skies. The rain didn't matter.  In fact, walking round the old town in Funchal as the rain soaked us through was rather enjoyable. I understand that that is not everyone's idea of fun. But it was our holiday and it just seemed to fit in with what we expected from Madeira. 

Madeira wine tour

Cable Cars to Monte

The must do’s from our time in Funchal include the cable car up to the village of Monte. The views are remarkable. There’s not a huge amount to do at Monte.  There’s the tropical gardens which are nice and there’s a fair few views.  There are several bars/cafes but they all seem to have slightly inflated prices due to the tourist trap nature of the village.  But don't despair, there is a small bar which only the locals seem to frequent.  It’s just off the main street as I remember it, by where the basket rides start.  We didn't eat in there but for a quick refresh the larger is cold and priced for locals. The best thing about Monte though, is leaving. But don’t leave in the cable car get the wicker baskets.  You’re catapulted down the hill on a wicker sled, ‘driven’ by a man in white. You skid round corners, dodge cars and hope you don't get a fly in your eye. It’s fun.  Go to Monte.  Get the cable car and the basket down.

Basket ride from Monte

Word of note for the Monte trip.  when the baskets stop half way back to Funchal there will be taxis  and the taxis will want to charge a lot.  We walked. It’s not that far. Maybe half an hour back into funchal. But you get to walk past some lovely houses and some in a state of disrepair too.  It’s not a spectacular walk but I’m glad we did it.

My second must do is to visit the Blandy’s Madeira wine museum/factory.  It’s in the new town and there’s a lovely park close by to sit in whilst you wait for the tours to start. The flowers in Madeira are how you imagine flowers should be, so sitting in a park is not the oddest thing to suggest, when you see how marvelously they are kept.
Now, I say you should go to Blandy’s and you should but the reason why you should go is so that you appreciate where you go the next day. Find Artur de Barros e Sousa.  One of the last small and independent makers of Madeira wine. A lovely way to spend an hour.

Where to stay:

We stayed in Pool Cottage, just up the hill from Funchal on the East side.

The veranda. Lovely to sit under
 at night or during a rain shower

It’s the ground floor apartment in a large town house that has two other apartments. When we were there the other apartments were booked but we didn't hear a peep from anyone, we presumed because the other apartments had quite large balconies and easy access to a sun deck with fabulous views, that they never ventured down to the garden area. It was romantic. French doors in both the bedroom and the lounge area open onto a veranda area with terrific views towards the ocean. There is a large bathroom with a walk in shower and a separate bath.

The pool, surrounded by banana trees

Pool cottage had a lovely relaxed feel to it and having access to the outside area meant that BBQing was very easy and with all the fresh produce available, we had several. (The fish is extremely fresh and cheap).

If there was a large number of you, you can book all the apartments and i’m sure you would have a terrific time. You are only a few minutes walk away from the centre of Funchal.

Where to eat:

There are a number of places I would recommend in Funchal.  If staying at the Pool Cottage, just be sure to avoid the tourist trap as you walk towards the old town.  You get all the restaurateurs approaching you in that annoying fashion. Keep walking and you find the hidden gems in the back streets. But firstly, as you walk into Funchal town, you’ll see a restaurant called Riso, you must go here, but opposite is a small cafe where they do wonderful coffee, Chinesa, and pastries. ideal for when you’re setting off for the morning and need a little something to get you going. That and you have fabulous views across the ocean and along the coast.

Now Riso is the one place we went back to twice, despite it being the most expensive restaurant we went to. This is unusual for us, as we like to find the places that give good quality food at affordable prices. But at Riso, the food and the service was complemented by some amazing views (and it wasn't earth shatteringly expensive).  I've seen some reviews about how the waiters were less than attentive, but this simply wasn't true for us. We found the entire experience both relaxing and above and beyond what the prices suggest you will receive. As you might have deduced from the name, Riso’s cuisine is entirely based upon rice.  But don't be alarmed, it is an education in what you can do with this simple grain. The food was exquisite.  No complaints at all. Even the vegetable soup was an explosion of flavour.  And this is the point about Madeira, due to the climate and location, the local produce is stunningly flavoursome. Simple dishes are transformed into award winning plates of food. 

The view from Riso

Having looked at various reviews we also tried O’Jangos.  Found on the east side of the old town, one street back from the front. Again, we ate here twice but it was a mixed bag.  The first evening we arrived we ate here and the service was slow. They always seem understaffed.  But that was no bother, the wine was good (Planalto Douro is a cracking white wine if you don;t bother with the house stuff), and everywhere you go you get given Bolo de caco, which is a type of garlic bread. Think of a large, crispy muffin with garlic butter. The food itself was simple. Meat potato and vegetables.  The vegetables were extremely good.  The seasoning was perfect. All in all, for the money it was acceptable.  Great atmosphere even outside where we sat and it was busy, a good sign, surely.

Well, on our last day we went for lunch here and I was served under cooked chicken. And when I pointed this out to the waitress, she seemed nonplussed. No offer of a new plate, or to reheat the food, no nothing.  she just walked off, never to return. This really spoilt my opinion of this place.  By all means go to O’Jangos, it seems extremely popular with locals and tourists alike but just don't expect anything special.  We both agreed that for the money, we’d had far better BBQ’s back at the cottage. But of course that is an unfair comparison to make.

Gaviao Novo, is just down the road from O’Jangos, has a slightly more reserved appearance and the menu is perhaps slightly more refined.  This is where i tried the espada.  A long, deep water fish, apparently only eaten in Madeira and Japan. It’s the fish you should try when in Madeira. A local specialty is with plantains. I've heard mixed reviews about this dish.  My espada was simply grilled (and unfortunately overcooked and only one fillet was seasoned). That said, the fish has a simple flavour but is worth trying. 

Espada. A very ugly fish!

We both had prawn is a garlic butter sauce to start with which was nice but expensive. Especially when we knew how much prawn cost on the island. Value for money this place is perhaps not. But my real grip with this restaurant is the waiter service.  Attentive yes, helpful yes but they try to be funny and making fun about someone based on their race. Not funny.  He played on the stereotypical English abroad, after fish and chips, gravy etc. Even the fact that we ordered wine and not beers and Malibu and coke.  Quite frankly I was offended. This service and the fact that the quality of the cheffing was below what I would expect, tends to make me warn people about this restaurant.  I have seen subsequent reviews where the ‘jokes’ by the waiter have been mentioned and not in a positive light. Or as something you have to look past.  Why? I’m not paying to ignore a rude waiter.

So unfortunately I feel I've given you one rave review and a couple of places to avoid.  I must confess, when we walked round the old town, the number of places we wanted to try were few. Hence we returned to Riso. Those we did try were one reviews found in travel guides and quite frankly they came up short.  Try and stumble upon a small fish restaurant if you can.  I’m afraid I don't have the name, but my in laws recently returned from Funchal and loved this small restaurant.

The food in Funchal can be expensive.  I guess it’s geared up for the cruise liners, which are a sight to behold when in the harbour. I am told there are good and reasonably priced restaurants in the new town and I wished we had tried some over there.  The new town has a vibrancy and is well worth exploring. My advice if you visit Madeira, get a car, try some highly recommended restaurants which are dotted around the island, as quality offerings in Funchal can be limited. And stay somewhere with a BBQ.  The local markets and even supermarkets offer some wonderful produce and if you stay somewhere with a view, a night in with a glass of wine and some home cooked fish and salads adds a pleasant alternative to wandering the city.