...Granada

This was probably one of our more spectacular fails when it came to organising and booking all the elements of our holiday, independently. We ended up in the middle of nowhere!  “Walking distance to small village with several bars and restaurants”, it said.  “Oh brilliant” we said.  Nothing better than having bars and restaurants within walking distance of where you’re staying.

It didn't mention the perilous walk along the river bank to get there and that the bars and restaurants were all either closed, pensionistas or looked dirtier than a dirty protest! Hmm, we’d be eating in or having the annoying option of driving somewhere and not being able to drink. Or at least me, the designated driver.

We had lots of BBQs.

Shade in Alhama

Surprisingly this turned out to be a great little holiday. Visit the Lake at Bermejales. Truly stunning

Great architecture in Alhama,
and places to cool off!

Where to stay:

Valenzuela is a tiny hamlet in Granada near Alhama de Granada.  We stayed in a lovely 2 bed cottage that is suitable for the winter months too. Although this is no modern abode, the red door that greets you is cheerful and as you enter you feel sheltered from the heat of the sun.  It’s comforting.  It’s a space you want to spend time in.  

Love this red door to the cottage

Views around Alhama de Granada

There’s nothing to do in Valenzuela. Nothing except soak up the sun and swim in the pool.  The outdoor space to this property is brilliant. If you need supplies, Moraleda de Zafayona or Alhama de Granada are your best bets.  There is a couple of shops in one of the villages close by, but to be honest, they’re not worth bothering with.

There is a health spa on the road that takes you to Alhama which you should visit. The town is called such after the thermal spa here,  al-hammam in Arabic  The waters here supposedly have medicinal qualities.  There is a nice walk here too.  You should also spend some time investigating Alhama de Granada, as this is the best place within striking distance of Valenzuela.  It has a very Roman feel to it and some of the architecture is quite impressive in a shabby ancient way. It also has some breathtaking views. Some are obvious others you just stumble upon.

Take a stroll along the stream at the hot spings

If you’re going to the Granada region, then you really do need to visit the Alhambra. Go early. You’ll avoid the queues (sort of) and the heat.  You don't want to waiting to enter a building at midday, in summer. Wear sensible shoes as their is a fair bit of walking involved.  The Alhambra is a marvel to behold.  You should also visit the City and take a tour bus as you won't find your way around otherwise.

Stunning buildings at the
Alhambra

When we left Valenzuela we both agreed that this was a holiday that would have been made all the better if we’d done it as a part of a fly drive holiday, and visited other parts of Andalusia. Tthe driving really isn't an issue.  The roads are good and not very busy.  It was a great feeling driving through the mountains.  You’d also do quite well to visit in the winter.  It snows here and I can only imagine the scenery looking fabulous in the white. I’d also consider staying in Alhama, just for the convenience.

The Alhambra is a must visit

Where to eat:

Now here’s the thing. You’ll struggle to find restaurants.  Or at least you’ll struggle to find restaurants with interesting menus.  Spanish food can be very simple. That’s not a criticism as i’m a huge fan of Spanish food. But what you will find is plenty of places serving food. Confused? It appears that in this region of Spain they still uphold a traditional way of life.  and that is giving you a ‘free’ Tapa with your drink. And the drinks are cheap!  We tipped reasonably well in percentage terms, just because we felt so bad at how cheap everything was.  And how good!

In Alhama our favourite place was in the main square before the big hill.  They cooked your tapas before your eyes and the beer was cold. There was always a selection. Well, meat, fish...

And this was our experience of eating out.  We did find one restaurant that seemed quite popular and frankly, the tapas at the bars was better. So when in Rome er, i mean Granada, do as they do, and drink and eat tapas!

That or stay in and BBQ!

 Useful Links

http://www.piccavey.com/alhama-de-granada/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alhama_de_Granada

http://wikitravel.org/en/Alhama_de_Granada

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/spain/5278449/Alhama-de-Granada-Spain-my-kind-of-town.html

...Seville

Aire de Seville

As city breaks go, you can’t beat Seville. And i’ll tell you for why. It has the most perfect blend of history and architecture at every turn. Stylish people lining every road, sipping coffee or refreshing themselves with a cana.  Yes, in the middle of the summer it is hot. Very hot, but this forces you to explore the cool and shaded side streets in which you can easily get lost.  You discover the most fantastic ice cream parlours and little cafes where the old wooden stools and tables balance dangerously on the cobbled street.

And if you’re really lucky you’ll discover Aire de Sevilla. A bath house from history, with moorish decor and music which transports you into a different time. I visit the bath house every time I find myself in Seville. It’s a must do.

Where to stay:

Roof terrace at Vincci La Rabida

The last time I was in Seville, we stayed in a boutique hotel.  It was nice enough and right in the centre of town.  But my preference would be to stay at the Vincci la Rabida

The hotel just feels like Seville and the terrace bar has some amazing views of the city, especially at night when the Cathedral is lit up. Ideal for a pre going out drink.

As drinks go, if you find yourself in the vicinity, as it is just out of the historical centre, there is a bar, la Fabrica, where you can pour your own beer and the bar snacks are good too.  It’s just a novel place but the beer is really good and the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly.

Bodega Santa Cruz

Where to eat:

Now for the food. We got ripped off one night when we ate out in Seville.  It can happen everywhere.  Unfortunately the owner who was eating on the table by us didn’t anticipate the fact that we understood Spanish, so we heard each time the poor waiter was ordered to add things to our bill, or ensure that we were given large glasses etc so we incurred higher charges.  I forget the name of the restaurant but it was tucked away in its own little square and had a large outside space at the front where they had tables.   

So here’s the trick. When in Seville, do as the locals do and hit the tapas. Most bars have their own speciality, so it’s worth asking and trying something new. You might expect that the street by the Cathedral is rip off central, but you’d be wrong. It’s where you find many locals and the prices are fair.  We tend to bar hop.  Order a cana or two and a couple of tapas and move on. You can’t go wrong (unless you order pickled mussels which are foul). You can explore countless streets and you’ll find good tapas bars on all of them, just try and look for locals.  It’s a simple theory but it seems to work.  But my favourite tapas bar and this is endorsed by rick Stein (we found it first!), is halfway up the road from the cathedral, Calle Mateos gago, and sits on the corner of a side street. It’s called Bodega Santa Cruz Las Columnas and the this is where you find the best flamenquines but all the Tapas is good here.  Your bill is chalked up on the bar and the staff are friendly in their own shouty way.  Tips are nonchalantly tossed over shoulders and into the trophy high up on the wall.  The bar itself doesn't look like much but the atmosphere is superb and all the patrons are friendly.  If you want to experience true Andalusian spirit, come here.

Links:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destination/spain/72346/36-Hours-in...-Seville.html

http://www.spanishfoodworld.co.uk/rick-stein-tapas/

http://www.airedesevilla.com/