...Fuengirola

Fuengirola I must confess wouldn't ordinarily be my first choice destination. My partner has a relative out there so we've had free accommodation and a reason to go. However, I seem to have fallen for the place. Yes there is a real element of Brits abroad which I try and turn a blind eye too. Yes the sea front is lined with high rise hotels blocking out the once magnificent mountain views. But, as with anywhere where you know what the locals know, such a place can reveal some unexpected treasures. There is a square, where of an evening you can sit and have an expensive glass of wine, and admire the old town hall, there is another square by the old post office where you can get a large brandy and a coffee for a few euros, in unspoilt peace.  There are restaurants where you wonder how they can produce food of such quality for the prices they charge.  The Beaches are fantastic if not busy at peak times. Oh and there’s  a Zoo.  What was once cages full of sad animals has become an magnificent site where animals have carefully thought out enclosures.

Where to stay:

Well this is going to be short. Only once have we not been able tos stay with said relative. All I can say is, you tend to get what you pay for.  

Where to eat:  

The Meson Salamanca. Undoubtedly my favourite place to eat in Fuengirola.  The owner has recently expanded the restaurant  and I recommend you sit in the old part.  The room on the left as you walk in. The Salamanca operates on a set menu basis but don't let the prices sway your opinion. It’s all good.  You can go a la carte but there’s no reason to really.  People do though but we’ve never seen the point.  We generally always go for the mid ranged option but we've sampled dishes from the cheapest to the most expensive. The quality of the ingredients is always high.  The Gambas y pil pil is a staple of ours when we go there.  The onion soup is also outstanding.  Rarely he will have mussels which I am told also live up to the high standards we have come to expect.
The pork in sauce is tender and cooked to perfection but my favourite is the entrecote. The quality of the beef is excellent. The veg that accompanies most of the dishes is season with garlic salt and it is oh so addictive. The food here is simple.  and most things come with chips and veg. This is how they serve you so quickly and get a high turnover of covers each night. The set menus come with wine, which he buys in bulk from his preferred vineyard so again, its not vinegar your drinking and it quite quaffable. As for desserts, i've never managed to stray from the Creme Brulee or the Crema Catalana. 

Locals flock to this place and it is always busy. It’s a little cramped inside but you get a feeling that everyone is just happy to have a table.  I’m not sure I've ever eaten anywhere that is such good value for money.
My next recommendation is a painful one to admit, having earlier bemoaned the whole Brits abroad culture. But it’s a Chinese. Now, I don't think I should be completely panned for this, as there is a large Chinese community in Fuengirola, so it only makes sense that there are some good Chinese restaurants.  Kevin, the owner is extremely friendly. The restaurant is called Ying Bing and can be found down fish alley.  He even makes the house chilli dipping sauce himself.  He tells us that when he makes it, the entire family leave the premises as the heat from the cooked chilli is so powerful it is almost unbearable.  So, when you order your spring rolls and you offered the hot chilli sauce, do dip with caution! The food here is not laced with MSG or other chemicals, it is just simply, good quality chinese food.  The Spring rolls are the best i’ve ever had. The Pork in hot sauce is the best i’ve ever had. All the dishes on the set menus (you can mix and match if you ask) are the best i’ve ever had. I’m sure if you went to london and spent a lot of money at a top end Chinese restaurant I would be proved wrong but having been here with people who travel to China, they too rave about this place.  

Useful Links:

http://www.andalucia.com/fuengirola/home.htm

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Tourism-g315915-Fuengirola_Costa_del_Sol_Andalucia-Vacations.html

... Funchal

This was one of my favourite holidays of recent years. It was relaxing, everywhere offered a superb view and the City of Funchal was ‘intriguing’. We didn't explore the Island as much as we should have.  In fact we didn't venture out of Funchal. This is probably why we’ll go back. To see the rest of Madeira.

We went in May, and for those of you who know about Madeira or have done some research, you’ll know that it is a tropical island.  So in May you get nice warm weather and run the risk of experiencing the odd rain shower or storm. We had several days of glorious sunshine in the low 20s and a couple of days of rain or overcast skies. The rain didn't matter.  In fact, walking round the old town in Funchal as the rain soaked us through was rather enjoyable. I understand that that is not everyone's idea of fun. But it was our holiday and it just seemed to fit in with what we expected from Madeira. 

Madeira wine tour

Cable Cars to Monte

The must do’s from our time in Funchal include the cable car up to the village of Monte. The views are remarkable. There’s not a huge amount to do at Monte.  There’s the tropical gardens which are nice and there’s a fair few views.  There are several bars/cafes but they all seem to have slightly inflated prices due to the tourist trap nature of the village.  But don't despair, there is a small bar which only the locals seem to frequent.  It’s just off the main street as I remember it, by where the basket rides start.  We didn't eat in there but for a quick refresh the larger is cold and priced for locals. The best thing about Monte though, is leaving. But don’t leave in the cable car get the wicker baskets.  You’re catapulted down the hill on a wicker sled, ‘driven’ by a man in white. You skid round corners, dodge cars and hope you don't get a fly in your eye. It’s fun.  Go to Monte.  Get the cable car and the basket down.

Basket ride from Monte

Word of note for the Monte trip.  when the baskets stop half way back to Funchal there will be taxis  and the taxis will want to charge a lot.  We walked. It’s not that far. Maybe half an hour back into funchal. But you get to walk past some lovely houses and some in a state of disrepair too.  It’s not a spectacular walk but I’m glad we did it.

My second must do is to visit the Blandy’s Madeira wine museum/factory.  It’s in the new town and there’s a lovely park close by to sit in whilst you wait for the tours to start. The flowers in Madeira are how you imagine flowers should be, so sitting in a park is not the oddest thing to suggest, when you see how marvelously they are kept.
Now, I say you should go to Blandy’s and you should but the reason why you should go is so that you appreciate where you go the next day. Find Artur de Barros e Sousa.  One of the last small and independent makers of Madeira wine. A lovely way to spend an hour.

Where to stay:

We stayed in Pool Cottage, just up the hill from Funchal on the East side.

The veranda. Lovely to sit under
 at night or during a rain shower

It’s the ground floor apartment in a large town house that has two other apartments. When we were there the other apartments were booked but we didn't hear a peep from anyone, we presumed because the other apartments had quite large balconies and easy access to a sun deck with fabulous views, that they never ventured down to the garden area. It was romantic. French doors in both the bedroom and the lounge area open onto a veranda area with terrific views towards the ocean. There is a large bathroom with a walk in shower and a separate bath.

The pool, surrounded by banana trees

Pool cottage had a lovely relaxed feel to it and having access to the outside area meant that BBQing was very easy and with all the fresh produce available, we had several. (The fish is extremely fresh and cheap).

If there was a large number of you, you can book all the apartments and i’m sure you would have a terrific time. You are only a few minutes walk away from the centre of Funchal.

Where to eat:

There are a number of places I would recommend in Funchal.  If staying at the Pool Cottage, just be sure to avoid the tourist trap as you walk towards the old town.  You get all the restaurateurs approaching you in that annoying fashion. Keep walking and you find the hidden gems in the back streets. But firstly, as you walk into Funchal town, you’ll see a restaurant called Riso, you must go here, but opposite is a small cafe where they do wonderful coffee, Chinesa, and pastries. ideal for when you’re setting off for the morning and need a little something to get you going. That and you have fabulous views across the ocean and along the coast.

Now Riso is the one place we went back to twice, despite it being the most expensive restaurant we went to. This is unusual for us, as we like to find the places that give good quality food at affordable prices. But at Riso, the food and the service was complemented by some amazing views (and it wasn't earth shatteringly expensive).  I've seen some reviews about how the waiters were less than attentive, but this simply wasn't true for us. We found the entire experience both relaxing and above and beyond what the prices suggest you will receive. As you might have deduced from the name, Riso’s cuisine is entirely based upon rice.  But don't be alarmed, it is an education in what you can do with this simple grain. The food was exquisite.  No complaints at all. Even the vegetable soup was an explosion of flavour.  And this is the point about Madeira, due to the climate and location, the local produce is stunningly flavoursome. Simple dishes are transformed into award winning plates of food. 

The view from Riso

Having looked at various reviews we also tried O’Jangos.  Found on the east side of the old town, one street back from the front. Again, we ate here twice but it was a mixed bag.  The first evening we arrived we ate here and the service was slow. They always seem understaffed.  But that was no bother, the wine was good (Planalto Douro is a cracking white wine if you don;t bother with the house stuff), and everywhere you go you get given Bolo de caco, which is a type of garlic bread. Think of a large, crispy muffin with garlic butter. The food itself was simple. Meat potato and vegetables.  The vegetables were extremely good.  The seasoning was perfect. All in all, for the money it was acceptable.  Great atmosphere even outside where we sat and it was busy, a good sign, surely.

Well, on our last day we went for lunch here and I was served under cooked chicken. And when I pointed this out to the waitress, she seemed nonplussed. No offer of a new plate, or to reheat the food, no nothing.  she just walked off, never to return. This really spoilt my opinion of this place.  By all means go to O’Jangos, it seems extremely popular with locals and tourists alike but just don't expect anything special.  We both agreed that for the money, we’d had far better BBQ’s back at the cottage. But of course that is an unfair comparison to make.

Gaviao Novo, is just down the road from O’Jangos, has a slightly more reserved appearance and the menu is perhaps slightly more refined.  This is where i tried the espada.  A long, deep water fish, apparently only eaten in Madeira and Japan. It’s the fish you should try when in Madeira. A local specialty is with plantains. I've heard mixed reviews about this dish.  My espada was simply grilled (and unfortunately overcooked and only one fillet was seasoned). That said, the fish has a simple flavour but is worth trying. 

Espada. A very ugly fish!

We both had prawn is a garlic butter sauce to start with which was nice but expensive. Especially when we knew how much prawn cost on the island. Value for money this place is perhaps not. But my real grip with this restaurant is the waiter service.  Attentive yes, helpful yes but they try to be funny and making fun about someone based on their race. Not funny.  He played on the stereotypical English abroad, after fish and chips, gravy etc. Even the fact that we ordered wine and not beers and Malibu and coke.  Quite frankly I was offended. This service and the fact that the quality of the cheffing was below what I would expect, tends to make me warn people about this restaurant.  I have seen subsequent reviews where the ‘jokes’ by the waiter have been mentioned and not in a positive light. Or as something you have to look past.  Why? I’m not paying to ignore a rude waiter.

So unfortunately I feel I've given you one rave review and a couple of places to avoid.  I must confess, when we walked round the old town, the number of places we wanted to try were few. Hence we returned to Riso. Those we did try were one reviews found in travel guides and quite frankly they came up short.  Try and stumble upon a small fish restaurant if you can.  I’m afraid I don't have the name, but my in laws recently returned from Funchal and loved this small restaurant.

The food in Funchal can be expensive.  I guess it’s geared up for the cruise liners, which are a sight to behold when in the harbour. I am told there are good and reasonably priced restaurants in the new town and I wished we had tried some over there.  The new town has a vibrancy and is well worth exploring. My advice if you visit Madeira, get a car, try some highly recommended restaurants which are dotted around the island, as quality offerings in Funchal can be limited. And stay somewhere with a BBQ.  The local markets and even supermarkets offer some wonderful produce and if you stay somewhere with a view, a night in with a glass of wine and some home cooked fish and salads adds a pleasant alternative to wandering the city.

...Salzburg

What can I say about Salzburg at Christmas... It’s beautiful, romantic and full of festive cheer. Oh, and Gluhwein. I can see the attraction of Salzburg all year round but having witnessed it in the snow, I can’t imagine enjoying myself more in the summer. There’s something fantastical about the snow capped mountains and wrapping up to avoid the -5 temperatures.

I could list the countless attractions to go see but Salzburg is so small you’ll stumble across them them by yourself.  My main highlights were the fortress and the zoo.  I do like a good zoo and now I really like a zoo in the snow.  Lions frolicking in a snowy paddock and rhinos with horns white and frozen, add a slightly bizarre twist to your animal viewing pleasure. 

The bus stop by the zoo.

View from the Fortress
 looking away from Salzburg

View from the woods by the
Museum of Modern Art

Where to stay:

We stayed in the Hotel Stein. We chose the Stein because our other options were fully booked.  Not a great endorsement to start with but I would recommend it.  Firstly, it’s on the wrong side of the river. That means it’s slightly cheaper but it’s right by the bridge that takes you to the old town so you’re still in the thick of it. We wanted to stay in hotel Am Dom but we were glad of our location in the Stein, as we felt that we had the best of both worlds. The room was clean and reasonably large despite being one of their cheaper rooms. There was ‘interesting’ fertility inspired  artwork in the room and elsewhere in the hotel.  The hotel had a Gothic chic feel to it. Dark colours, reds and dimly lit. It may not be to everyone's taste but it was different and I quite liked it.

The reason why i’d recommend the hotel though is the rooftop bar.  Here is where you can have a drink in the evening or have your breakfast in the morning.  And the breakfast was amazing.  One of the best I've had. Not only is the food good but the view is to die for.  Honestly, many hotels in Salzburg would pay a lot of money  and charge for it too, to have the panoramas the Hotel Stein offers.  You can stare down the river, towards the mountains or up at the fortress.  Stunning. The breakfast is as you’d expect, fruits, cereals, yogurts, scrambled eggs, speck, salamis, cheese, breads, cakes and tea and coffee an endless selection but tasty too. The quality of the ingredients was very good.  It was no wonder that the breakfast service was very popular with guests.

Where to eat:

The first thing I will mention is that smoking is a very popular habit in Austria, so popular that they haven’t banned it from restaurants.  Secondly, if like us, you enjoy going for a drink pre and or post dinner, you’ll struggle to find a pub.  It seems that the Austrians enjoy eating and drinking so much, they don’t see the need to separate them at all. So if you find a place you like for dinner, stay there.  You won't find somewhere else to go for a drink that isn't another restaurant.

The culinary highlight was undoubtedly Gasthaus Zwettler's Stiftskeller.  Seemingly well thought of by the locals too, the atmosphere here was fantastic, really lively, fun and friendly.  The food is typically Austrian, lots of meat. The house wine was very good and well priced.  The beer was 

A stein and a half pint at Stiftkellers

wonderful. The food is simple yet full of flavour, and I really would recommend the consume with potato. Consume seems very popular in Salzburg and was delicious everywhere I had it.

As you’ll soon discover from reading this Blog, my partner and I do like Italian food. So our trip to Salzburg was not complete without a trip to a little Italian restaurant called Pasta e Vino. This small restaurant is located nowhere special but don’t let that put you off. We sat by the meat counter which was no big deal as you could study the array of cured meats and smell the aromas coming from the kitchen.  They have a variety of pastas, and I imagine the ingredients change on a daily basis to create the meat, vegetable and fish pastas they advertise.  We shared an antipasti, which was huge,  Very fresh ingredients and extremely tasty.  Although I wasn't keen on the caper berries which seem to be a staple in Salzburg. The meat pasta was expertly cooked and rich. It was just pasta and a meat sauce but iI could have licked my plate clean.  The vegetable option was equally good.  The clean plates were testament to that. Again the house wine was more that suitable for the job.  No need to spend the extra euros on a bottle here! I should add that it is no surprise to find a good Italian restaurant in Austria, as in Salzburg there seemed to be a lot of Italians!

Now, the culinary experiences were not all brilliant.  Having scoured TripAdvisor I had my hit list and on that list was Gasthaus Wildermann. Good beer (as you would expect) and lovely food.  I had reindeer stew which was faultless.  The red cabbage that came with it was immense.  The flavour was unbelievable. Again, the consume was highly recommendable. I had one with a slice of beef strudel in it. Minced beef wrapped in pastry and it was odd to look at but worked so well as a starter. My partner had the same but with sliced pancake in it.  The texture to this was not to my liking but I can see why some people would like it. I have to confess, I can’t remember what the other main course we had was.  I can only assume that the reason for this is the reason I would be tentative about recommending Wildermann’s.  The atmosphere.  We didn't have to wait long for our, which was a god thing because we couldn't wait to leave.  The restaurant consists of a bar at one end of a room where the tables are round the edges leaving a large space in the middle.  The tables are large and you tend to have to share them with other diners.  Not hugely problematic but it seemed to stifle the hubbub. No one was talking or talking with any great volume. Although, i must confess when we’d found the place the night before, it seemed busier and slightly more vocal but there was something uncomfortable about it.  Perhaps it was to so with the sour faced waitress.  She and the male counterpart seemed hugely unimpressed with life. I know the Austrian language can seem quite stern but the faces we were shown did not show a hint of welcome to us.

If you do go to Wildermann’s you may well have a different experience to us but frankly I doubt it.  The only reason you should go here, is that perhaps it offers a real insight to Austrian life and you’ll see what I mean by that if you go to Salzburg and observe the demographic.

Now, who likes cake?  If you love cake then you’ll love Cafe Tomaselli’s.  Check the reviews on TripAdvisor and you’ll see a few people claiming that it lives off it’s reputation.  That may be so, but here’s a few pointers to ensure you have a good experience.  Don’t be afraid to wait for the right table.  And you will, as it gets very busy.  The right table is not in the main room. On the right there is another smaller room with wood paneled walls.  It is quieter in here and more comfortable. Order cake.  You’ll have your drinks order taken first, the tea is good, the coffee decidedly average.  The Prosecco eminently drinkable and by far my favourite way to lubricate before and during cake time. You pay for the cake separately.  I’m not sure why but you do.  A tray is brought to you so you can choose whatever takes your fancy.  We shared an apple strudel one day and a chocolate cake the other. Both were exceptional. Please do try Tomaselli’s it really does add a richness to your trip to Salzburg.  The history to the place really compliments your walk around the old town, as you imagine the streets in an era long gone but is hinted at by the number of people dressed in traditional styles. 

Christmas markets (taken from a horse and carriage).

Having gone at Christmas, I feel I must mention the Christmas markets. I imagine in years gone by there was real variety and wonder. Today, not so much. Many of the stalls were selling remarkably similar items. Mainly tree decorations, hats and tat.  But that’s not to say you shouldn't go there because you should.  people seem to come here to meet and be merry.  Hot drinks like Gluhwein and hot white Russians give everyone a happy glow. And some of the decorations are worth buying. But there’s also the food.  There are numerous stalls selling Haunsburgers (sp)  and sausages and deep fried dough with various toppings, sweet or savory. The smells were delightful and everyone seemed happy. The Austrians really do like their food and drink and I really like their food and drink!  

A quick mention on the Mozart balls.  There are good Mozart balls and there are bad Mozart balls.  Don’t buy the cheap ones.  They’re not so nice.

Useful Links:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/austria/8829062/Salzburg-Austria-a-cultural-guide.html

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/budgettravel/8119927/Five-free-things-to-do-in-Salzburg.html

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/austria/1934311/Salzburg-Austria-The-perfect-break.html

http://www.salzburg.info/en/

http://www.visit-salzburg.net/

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Tourism-g190441-Salzburg_Austrian_Alps-Vacations.html

...Algarve

So where to begin... lets just pluck a destination out of the air.

And it's Portugal, the Algarve. Moncarapacho to be precise.

I visited Portugal in May 2012 with my partner. We stayed in a little village called Moncarapacho, near the coastal 'resort' of Fuseta, not more than 40 minutes drive east from Faro.

Where to stay:

If there's 2-4 of you then you can't go too far wrong with this place.  Located a stones throw from the main square, Casa Rua do Carmo.

The house itself is set over two floors, with a stylish kitchen and comfortable living room.  It is quite beautiful and you can tell the owners have an eye for interior design.  The only fault we could find with the facilities was the poor TV.

Upstairs you have two double bedrooms, both with en-suite and very comfortable beds. The stair case was solid stone and quite steep, just in case you're wanting to talk kids.

Outside, there was a small corner pool. Ideal for relaxing in with a gin and tonic and a book.  There was another area for a couple of people to sit and relax and there was also a roof top terrace, to catch some rays on.  the BBQ was also up here.  You need a head for heights for when you're carrying your supplies up here.

The roof terrace had some superb views towards to the sea and to the surrounding hill sides.

The castle gardens at Tavira

What you’ll find:
The village has everything you’ll need, from supermarkets (not so super but you’ll certainly find everything you’ll need to be self catered) and patisseries, to local markets and banks.  It has it all.  The Museum, is well worth a visit.  When we were there a lovely British woman who lived there showed us around.  For a small village, this museum had some very interesting pieces. The main square, with its floral trees and church, is a great place to people watch.  There are two cafes here and the locals agree with the tourists, Ana’s is the place to be.
You’ll want a car.  For all it’s charm, you’ll not want to spend your week in Moncarapacho.  You’re not far from the famous town of Tavira. We agreed that Tavira was stunning but preferred Moncarapacho as a place to stay.  But then we like it quiet. Tavira has your usual array of tourist traps when it comes to restaurants and shops. The walk up to the castle is well worth it.

Now for the food:
I can barely bring myself to say it but the best place for food in Moncarapacho was ‘Tapas y Pizza’.  Don’t hate me but it was.  This wonderful little place serves great pizza but also serves a great variety of dishes, all home cooked and loving prepared by the owner.  
The other local restaurants such as Colibri’s, which is raved about on TripAdvisor is, well, bland by comparison. It’s famous steak on a stone was good admittedly, really good.  But it was just a chunk of meat. The seafood, despite being by the sea, was frozen and tasteless. Everything was too salty and the service was quite frankly, rude.  

For the same money we could have feasted like kings back at the house, with a panoramic view.  Maybe we were just unlucky but maybe we just have higher standards. Afterall, this is why i’m writing this blog. I want others to be able to find those gems, where you get a really good dining experience, and not necessarily have to break the bank to get it. Colibri’s isn't that gem.
So where was the gem of this holiday.  Well,Ana’s was friendly and delicious but the winner has to go to the little seafood cafe in Fuseta called (I think) O Corvo.

This is where you find the locals, and we all know that’s a good sign. Young families, old and not so grumpy me, lovers and son’s taking their mama out for lunch.  Everyone can be found here.
We ordered the plate of the day (sardines) and one salmon.  When the sardines arrived our initial reaction was, ‘they’re ripping off the tourists’. When the salmon arrived, we thought our initial thinking was compounded. We were wrong. The portions are huge. I must have had a dozen big sardines and when i was done, the table of men next to us who were clearly there for the afternoon offered me some of theirs! 

The fish was fresh, the salad was crisp and the potatoes were not fussy.  It was a heavenly simple but delicious meal.  I felt sorry for the scrawny man glugging at ice cold beers to stay cool, stoking and attending to the BBQ (furnace) but he seemed quite content, the master of the food.
I may be wrong, in fact I know I am, but the cost of this meal for 2, including a cold drink and a coffee each, was just over 12 euros.  A bargain. A steal. A gem!
We returned one other time, when Frango, piri piri was the dish of the day. No fish, as it was a Sunday, no boats had left the harbour. Still just as delicious.

The BBQ at O Corvo, Fuseta

The island beaches in Fuseta. Take the boat.
 Well worth the trip for a private beach afternoon.